Water Fuel Systems
water is a better way!
THE ENERGY NON CRISIS #3
Installations
HHO GENERATOR
ELECTROLYZER INSTALLATION
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using Waterfuel technology may result in serious damage or body injury. Read and follow the instructions and safety precautions given here and in relevant places throughout this book to avoid these hazards. If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installation. It should take 30 to 45 minutes to install.
Work outside, no smoking; make sure the engine is not hot.
Wear goggles and gloves and only use professional tools; use
common sense and general safety procedures used for automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK!
LET'S GET FAMILIAR WITH THE ELECTROLYZER
The Electrolyzer is the heart of the system, that generates HHO and cools down the engine:
INSTALLATION
Mount the HHO Water fuel device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it can
easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.
IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you're not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area. I cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a
combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the Electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) too much electrolyte. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to a destructive result.
You can prevent this from happening by:
1. Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water are NOT distilled water!
2. Starting with no more than ½ teaspoon of baking soda, and add gradually , only when you're sure no excess heat is being generated. Please note the ROD Design needs 4 teaspoons of Baking Soda and Draws about 2 AMPS.
3. Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the Electrolyzer. A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (not supplied) may be adequate. Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car's frame or anything other the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator. That's it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let's move for connections and supply lines. The HHO Water4Gas device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.
STEP 1. VACUUM
Vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to Suck the HHO into a place such as the Carburetor or the Intake Manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture. Connect the output to the carb/intake manifold.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE THE BRAKES VACUUM LINE. This is usually a very thick black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster (usually a large drum on the firewall on the driver side): The PCV valve* line usually makes a good connection. Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should also be connected at or near the intake manifold. * Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual refreshment of the air inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase.
WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE VACUUM LINE between the engine intake and the jar. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to the device. A universal vacuum line T-Connector is provided as well as a length of vacuum hose to make the connection. A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use). Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal. Its edges are usually too small for the hose, and should be trimmed (edge cut off) with a knife.
STEP 2. ELECTRICAL:
The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric), or contact us for help.
1. Connect the black terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.
2. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.
3. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect positive (12 Volts) to the red terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.
4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what's called “split flex tubing”, see photo. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot. Don't buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it's only 99 cents for 10 ft.
NOTES:
In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. I just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp ignition circuit, that I use. In some older cars where there was no
fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. I just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well. In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself). If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is
familiar with your specific model.
STEP 3. FINAL SETUP:
Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1” of free space at the top. Add 4 teaspoon of Electrolyte (pure Baking Soda) to the 32oz HHO Generator and 2 Tablespoons to the 64oz HHO Generator. Close the jar. Both HHO Units should draw about 2 AMPS of power. More Baking Soda may be added but, make sure the units operate cool and don't overheat. Running the units too hot will create steam and that will cause a drop in mileage and engine performance.
TEST RUN
1. Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals disconnected (make sure it doesn't touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse blowout).
2. Turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve (sometimes called “Bubbler Cap” or just “Bubbler”) fully CLOCKWISE. Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
3. Turn on the engine and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the thin tubing inside the device (here by the way is the great advantage of having a strong glass jar instead of metal or non clear plastic – total transparency and
visibility!) Gradually turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action.
4. Turn off the engine.
5. Connect the electricity by putting the fuse on and making sure all connections are tight (hand force only).
6. Start the engine again and watch the electrolyzing action as a yellowish gas (HHO) will start forming and flow toward the top of the jar.
7. Within a short time, you will notice that the engine starts to sound quite differently. It will sound smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable for a couple minutes. This is normal.
The HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and cancels the pinging and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.
Congratulations! Your HHO Waterfuel system is now ready to go! Enjoy it!
DISCLAIMER:
we are providing a service by locating the part suppliers and assembling the generators, kits and other mpg booster products.
NO WARRANTY is expressed or implied concerning the use of these devices for any particular application other than what is described in the guarantee. Use of these devices is at your own risk. These devices are not intended for use in violation of State or Federal law or regulations. Compliance with any State or Federal laws or regulations is the responsibility of the buyer. Water Fuel Systems is not responsible for how you use this device.
ELECTROLYZER INSTALLATION
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using Waterfuel technology may result in serious damage or body injury. Read and follow the instructions and safety precautions given here and in relevant places throughout this book to avoid these hazards. If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installation. It should take 30 to 45 minutes to install.
Work outside, no smoking; make sure the engine is not hot.
Wear goggles and gloves and only use professional tools; use
common sense and general safety procedures used for automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK!
Yes, HHO is combustible – AFTER IT ENTERS THE ENGINE – that's the whole point. Yet your Waterfuel system does NOT store hydrogen when installed properly, so there is no fire hazard due to hydrogen storage. So again, don't let people who don't understand the system intimidate you or tell you about non-existent hazards. Waterfuel technology cools down
the engine and adds safety to any car.
the engine and adds safety to any car.
LET'S GET FAMILIAR WITH THE ELECTROLYZER
The Electrolyzer is the heart of the system, that generates HHO and cools down the engine:
INSTALLATION
Mount the HHO Water fuel device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it can
easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.
IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you're not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area. I cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a
combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the Electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) too much electrolyte. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to a destructive result.
You can prevent this from happening by:
1. Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water are NOT distilled water!
2. Starting with no more than ½ teaspoon of baking soda, and add gradually , only when you're sure no excess heat is being generated. Please note the ROD Design needs 4 teaspoons of Baking Soda and Draws about 2 AMPS.
3. Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the Electrolyzer. A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (not supplied) may be adequate. Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car's frame or anything other the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator. That's it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let's move for connections and supply lines. The HHO Water4Gas device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.
STEP 1. VACUUM
Vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to Suck the HHO into a place such as the Carburetor or the Intake Manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture. Connect the output to the carb/intake manifold.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE THE BRAKES VACUUM LINE. This is usually a very thick black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster (usually a large drum on the firewall on the driver side): The PCV valve* line usually makes a good connection. Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should also be connected at or near the intake manifold. * Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual refreshment of the air inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase.
WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE VACUUM LINE between the engine intake and the jar. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to the device. A universal vacuum line T-Connector is provided as well as a length of vacuum hose to make the connection. A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use). Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal. Its edges are usually too small for the hose, and should be trimmed (edge cut off) with a knife.
STEP 2. ELECTRICAL:
The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric), or contact us for help.
1. Connect the black terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.
2. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.
3. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect positive (12 Volts) to the red terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.
4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what's called “split flex tubing”, see photo. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot. Don't buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it's only 99 cents for 10 ft.
NOTES:
In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. I just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp ignition circuit, that I use. In some older cars where there was no
fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. I just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well. In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself). If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is
familiar with your specific model.
STEP 3. FINAL SETUP:
Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1” of free space at the top. Add 4 teaspoon of Electrolyte (pure Baking Soda) to the 32oz HHO Generator and 2 Tablespoons to the 64oz HHO Generator. Close the jar. Both HHO Units should draw about 2 AMPS of power. More Baking Soda may be added but, make sure the units operate cool and don't overheat. Running the units too hot will create steam and that will cause a drop in mileage and engine performance.
TEST RUN
1. Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals disconnected (make sure it doesn't touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse blowout).
2. Turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve (sometimes called “Bubbler Cap” or just “Bubbler”) fully CLOCKWISE. Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
3. Turn on the engine and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the thin tubing inside the device (here by the way is the great advantage of having a strong glass jar instead of metal or non clear plastic – total transparency and
visibility!) Gradually turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action.
4. Turn off the engine.
5. Connect the electricity by putting the fuse on and making sure all connections are tight (hand force only).
6. Start the engine again and watch the electrolyzing action as a yellowish gas (HHO) will start forming and flow toward the top of the jar.
7. Within a short time, you will notice that the engine starts to sound quite differently. It will sound smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable for a couple minutes. This is normal.
The HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and cancels the pinging and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.
Congratulations! Your HHO Waterfuel system is now ready to go! Enjoy it!
DISCLAIMER:
we are providing a service by locating the part suppliers and assembling the generators, kits and other mpg booster products.
NO WARRANTY is expressed or implied concerning the use of these devices for any particular application other than what is described in the guarantee. Use of these devices is at your own risk. These devices are not intended for use in violation of State or Federal law or regulations. Compliance with any State or Federal laws or regulations is the responsibility of the buyer. Water Fuel Systems is not responsible for how you use this device.
BUT WON'T IT VOID MY CAR WARRANTY?
We get this question all the time. The answer is simple:
Your car or truck is being damaged right now by UNBURNED FUEL! Our technology will help not only eliminate carbon deposits caused by unburned gasoline - but will ACTIVELY clean out your engine every time you drive. Over the first few weeks you will notice that the engine becomes smoother and smoother. Then it will level off at a new level - at which the engine continues to STEAM_CLEAN itself every day!
Water fuel systems makes the engine quiet, calm. The engine stops knocking or "pinging". The water changes the combustion cycle into a more even or "round" cycle. This happens IMMEDIATELY upon installation, and from that moment on, your engine works in a new way. The effect is not only less noise, it's also less vibration, resulting in reduced strain on the transmission (thus smoother gear shifts), cleaner pistons and valves, and generally better engine operation.
Water cools down the engine. For years, heavy trucks have been using water injection systems that cost up to $15,000 to cool their engines. Truck owners are very sensitive to maintenance expenses and they know from years of experience that water reduces their breakdowns and overall operating costs. We do the same - affordably. Wouldn't you rather pay as little as $39.95 for a do it yourself kit to get the same results? Now you can.
Water Fuel Systems widens the torque range and makes the vehicle accelerate faster. After acceleration, you don't have to press the gas pedal as much to keep going. Trucks pull better uphill with Water Fuel Systems. Would you say that less strain on that Detroit diesel engine must result in less wear and tear over the life of the engine?
EASY UNDO: Our technology does not change your vehicle's engine or computer, so if you ever decide that you don't want this system, you can unhook it in less than a minute and your engine is just as it was - but cleaner!
Imagine yourself seeing, hearing and feeling the changes described above happening in your very own car or truck. We invite you to test this technology for yourself just like we've done, and just like 1000's of vehicle owners and fleet managers from around the world have done.
ATTENTION: TRUCKERS! & TRUCKING COMPANIES!
Installation of one of our 6 pk Generator systems, may only boost your fuel mileage 15-20% not a lot!
Consider saving 15-20% per week on fuel cost in a year what would that mean to you?
We get this question all the time. The answer is simple:
Your car or truck is being damaged right now by UNBURNED FUEL! Our technology will help not only eliminate carbon deposits caused by unburned gasoline - but will ACTIVELY clean out your engine every time you drive. Over the first few weeks you will notice that the engine becomes smoother and smoother. Then it will level off at a new level - at which the engine continues to STEAM_CLEAN itself every day!
Water fuel systems makes the engine quiet, calm. The engine stops knocking or "pinging". The water changes the combustion cycle into a more even or "round" cycle. This happens IMMEDIATELY upon installation, and from that moment on, your engine works in a new way. The effect is not only less noise, it's also less vibration, resulting in reduced strain on the transmission (thus smoother gear shifts), cleaner pistons and valves, and generally better engine operation.
Water cools down the engine. For years, heavy trucks have been using water injection systems that cost up to $15,000 to cool their engines. Truck owners are very sensitive to maintenance expenses and they know from years of experience that water reduces their breakdowns and overall operating costs. We do the same - affordably. Wouldn't you rather pay as little as $39.95 for a do it yourself kit to get the same results? Now you can.
Water Fuel Systems widens the torque range and makes the vehicle accelerate faster. After acceleration, you don't have to press the gas pedal as much to keep going. Trucks pull better uphill with Water Fuel Systems. Would you say that less strain on that Detroit diesel engine must result in less wear and tear over the life of the engine?
EASY UNDO: Our technology does not change your vehicle's engine or computer, so if you ever decide that you don't want this system, you can unhook it in less than a minute and your engine is just as it was - but cleaner!
Imagine yourself seeing, hearing and feeling the changes described above happening in your very own car or truck. We invite you to test this technology for yourself just like we've done, and just like 1000's of vehicle owners and fleet managers from around the world have done.
ATTENTION: TRUCKERS! & TRUCKING COMPANIES!
Installation of one of our 6 pk Generator systems, may only boost your fuel mileage 15-20% not a lot!
Consider saving 15-20% per week on fuel cost in a year what would that mean to you?
INSTALLATION IMAGES!!
